As with any cosmopolitan city you can survive on the international standard hamburgers and pizza. But that would be a waste. Catalonia has a distinctive cuisine which derives from its proximity to the sea and its closeness to France. It is also easy to live on snacks such as 'tapas', saucers full of anything from prawns to pieces of spicy sausage. Enjoy these with beer or cava, the excellent local answer to champagne.
Until the urban renewal that came with the 1992 Olympics the most enjoyable places to eat were the little shacks selling seafood on the beach. Those have gone, but their memory lives on in an upscale form with Agua. Just look for the shimmering statue of a fish and it's right by it. This is the place to eat paella as you look out across the shining sea.
Catalans all seem to possess an unbelievably sweet tooth. Nowhere is this more evident than in the 'granjas'. All are good, but it's hard to beat the service of the traditional bow-tied waiters of Granja Dulcinea in Petritxol in the heart of the Barri Gotic or Gothic Quarter. Try a suizo, thick hot chocolate topped with even thicker cream.
Close to the city hall, Café del Academia manages to serve traditional Catalan food with a light modern touch. The décor is equally modern, although it blends harmoniously with the 15th century architecture of the building.
More traditional is the relatively nearby Can Culleretes, Barcelona's oldest restaurant. Some of the traditional recipes such as wild boar stew can be a bit heavy for modern tastes. The excellent seafood menu is a bit lighter. The wine list is also extremely good value.
The rather sterile World Trade Center does not look an auspicious place for classy dining. But Ruccola is currently the most fashionable place to eat in the city. Its fusion of Catalan, Asian and Italian cuisine is not as expensive as the appearance of its glamor might lead you to expect.
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