All Abroad

Barcelona: Losing yourself in the city

Barcelona is a good place to get lost. In fact that is one of its definite pleasures. Meandering through the ancient streets, around every corner, there is another surprise. It might be a pretty square, a little art shop or a bar with a beautiful balcony.

There are sights that no visitor should miss – the Picasso Museum, Gaudi’s stunning modernist architecture, the churches and cathedral of the Gothic Quarter – but do leave time for aimless wandering.

Although it is a city of distinct parts, Barcelona is fairly compact with many of the sights within easy walking distance of each other. A map reveals the tightly packed mass of narrow streets bordered by Avda Paral.lel, the Ciutadella Park, Plaça Catalunya and the sea. This area fell within the medieval walls and made up the entire city until 150 years ago.

At its heart is the Barri Gòtic (Gothic Quarter). Its winding streets grew within the original Roman wall. In the Middle Ages La Mercé, Sant Pere and La Ribera, were brought within the city by a second wall built in the 13th century.

On the other side of the riverbed later to become the Rambla was the Raval and a third city wall built in the 14th century. Almost all of Barcelona’s great medieval buildings are within this old walled city.

Above the Barri Gòtic is the grid of streets built after the city’s third set of walls were torn down in 1860. This is the Eixample, where most of the Moderniste architecture is concentrated. Your hotel or the tourist office will tell you about the Ruta del Modernisme, a system of guides that takes you through some 50 Art Nouveau sites.

Beyond this was once countryside, but now encompasses a group of towns and villages, often with their own distinct identities. These include Gràcia and Sarrià, the Pedralbes zone, and the Collserola hills.

Closer still is the harbor and Barceloneta, the city’s traditional gateway to the beach. This is one of the areas that was transformed for the 1992 Olympics. It may not have the dubious color it once had, but at least the sea is clean enough for bathing. The place to get the best view of the city is from the Montjuic mountain.

Despite its proximity to the city some parts are remarkably tranquil. It is also home to the Olympic village, an excellent assortment of museums, a ‘typical’ Spanish village and the magic fountain. With its choreographed colored lights this is perhaps the worst taste and most enjoyable sight in Barcelona.