Once upon a time the restaurants of Dublin were generally dull, the food tasteless and eating out was a rarity. With prosperity has come a range of restaurants that are as good as anywhere in the world. But don't miss out on all the tradition, some of it's improved with age.
Leo Burdock (2 Werburgh Street)
lays claim to being the best fish-and-chip shop in Ireland and, possibly, the world. It could be. Don't expect anything sophisticated, like tables and chairs, Burdock's is strictly takeaway only. So you just have to make like a real Dubliner and enjoy your cod, ray, whiting, or haddock in the open air.
L'Ecrivain (109A Lower Baggot Street Tel: 1 661 1919)
Close to the heart of Georgian Dublin, this formal restaurant creates an ever-changing menu of French dishes from the freshest Irish ingredients. Tipped for a Michelin star, this is one of the classiest places to eat in the city.
The Tea Rooms (Clarence Hotel, 6-8 Wellington Quay. Tel: 1 670 7766)
Although the name might suggest something rather different, this is in fact one of Dublin's most sophisticated restaurants. Owned by the rock band U2, it's very popular with celebrities. Fortunately the service is definitely democratic and you won't find yourself ignored when some star from the world of music or movies walks through the door.
Gallagher Boxty House (20-21 Temple Bar. Phone: 1 677 2762)
Known as "GBH" to its many fans, this is real filling traditional fare. The Boxty is Ireland's potato pancake and it's just the thing to soak up a pint or two. GBH, situated in the heart of fashionable Temple Bar, also features other time-honored dishes such as Gallagher's Irish stew, steaks and Mollie Mor fish stew.
Old School House (Church Road, Swords Village. Phone: 1 840 2846)
Situated in a small village this restaurant is well worth the trip away from the city center. It is, as it proclaims slightly tongue in cheek, in a class of its own. The owners have not tried to disguise the building's scholastic origins, but the food is as far removed from school meals as could possibly be imagined. It specializes in seafood and contemporary continental and Irish cuisine.
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