All Abroad

Dublin: Finding your way around

Dublin does not have the stunning beauty of Europe’s great capital cities such as Rome, Paris or Prague. But that’s not to say it’s short of sightseeing attractions or memorable places.

The main thing to remember is that the city is divided by the River Liffey. The south side has always been the more prosperous while the north is, shall we say, more gritty and down-to-earth.

Most of the sights are to the south in the graceful Georgian streets. Here you’ll find the grand Fitzwilliam and Merrion squares, close by the immaculate gardens of St Stephen’s Green. When the weather’s good it’s a real pleasure to walk round this well-kept area.

Many of the city’s landmarks are here too including Trinity College, the Irish National Museum, the home of the Irish Parliament, Leinster House, and the National Gallery of Ireland. It’s also the place in Dublin for up-market shopping round Grafton Street.

Next to the Georgian heart of Dublin is Temple Bar. Not so long ago this area was run-down and derelict, and then it was revived as part of the city’s growing prosperity. The streets filled up with restaurants, cafes, nightclubs, art galleries and a seemingly endless profusion of bars.

Unfortunately, it also attracted hordes of drunken, boisterous British stag and hen parties. This drove away locals and visitors alike. But recently many bars and clubs have banned the debauched large groups making the area, once again, Dublin’s place for a night out. And the shops, galleries and cafes make it a great spot to hang out during the day too.

Going west you’ll see the impressive Christ Church and St Patrick’s cathedrals. From even further back in history, the Norman city walls are on view in Cook Street. Nearby, on Dame Street, is that enduring symbol of British rule, Dublin Castle.

Even further west is the Guinness brewery, the Museum of Modern Art and Kilmainham Gaol. All the places mentioned so far are contained within a relatively compact area that can easily be explored on foot.

North of the river is the General Post Office building that was the focus of the 1916 uprising which eventually led to Irish independence. Its grand façade is still pitted from the gunfire. This side of the Liffey also includes Phoenix Park, the Dublin Writers Museum, The James Joyce Center and the Hugh Lane Municipal Gallery of Modern Art.