You are never far away from a snack, whether it is a fish sandwich, kebab or a selection of small dishes known as "mezes". It is quite easy to spend days just grazing between attractions without ever having a full meal. That would be a shame because the city does possess some extremely good restaurants and most are extremely well priced in comparison to their more western counterparts.
As you would expect, most of the restaurants feature Turkish cuisine. That does not mean they are all the same. There are definite regional variations, as you will discover, particularly if you sample some of the fiery Anatolian fare. As befits a cosmopolitan city there are also strong culinary influences from other countries such as Russia, France and Italy.
For a taste from the past, try the Daruzziyafe which has opened in the Suleymaniye Mosque complex in order to preserve Ottoman cuisine. Some evenings offer live traditional music to go with the soups and stews made to centuries-old recipes.
More upscale is Le Select in Levent. Housed in a beautiful villa, it combines Turkish, Russian and French influences with everything from delicate seafood to steak. This is one to book for a special night.
Not quite as pricey but still something special is the Develi, one of the oldest kebab restaurants in the city. The stunning views across the Sea of Marmara and great food make this a place to remember. Try the Fistikli kebab with pistachios.
Haci Abdullah in Sakizaqaci Cad always seems to be packed with locals. You can see why. The food is good, especially the grilled meat and pickles and the price is right. You would find it hard to spend $10 here.
And, just to show that Istanbul is not just for carnivores, vegetarian restaurants are beginning to spring up. One of the best, Nature and Peace offers meat-free versions of Turkish dishes and other healthy alternatives.
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